Discovering the Whisky Capitals: Campbeltown and Islay

Campbeltown – From Gritty to Great

Campbeltown is a place that wears its history on its sleeve. When I first visited, the whisky heritage was evident, but the town itself felt tired. It was one of those places where you went for the distilleries and little else (when I first visited Springbank was the only one you could check out). The streets had a slightly grubby feel, and it lacked the buzz of a town confident in its future.

That’s all changed. Today, Campbeltown feels cleaner, brighter, and more welcoming. The whisky industry and other businesses have injected new energy into the town, and you can sense the pride locals have in their whisky capital once again.

The food and drink scene has been transformed too. There are new bars and restaurants boasting Campbeltown whisky lists that will make your head spin. Tour guides are equally passionate, with newcomers to the town, such as Sophia McLean from Cadenheads, now championing the town's whisky and independent bottlings. The town itself feels more open to visitors than ever before. Campbeltown has moved from being a stopover on a whisky map to a destination worth lingering in, a whisky capital that is reclaiming its crown.

The Journey to Campbeltown & Islay – Still an Adventure

One thing that hasn’t changed much over the years is just how far away these two whisky regions feel. Coming from any of Scotland’s major cities, the trip can be brutal but rewarding. Long roads, ferries, and the sense you’re heading to the very edge of the map. On this trip, it took me seven hours to get back home to Speyside from Islay. Seven hours!

“I could have flown to California in the same time.”

That said, the journey has improved. Flights are now more reliable, and the ferry has seriously upped its game. The food on board is a far cry from what it used to be; now it’s something you actually look forward to (Cal Mac mac and cheese, yes please!) Islay will never be “easy” to reach, but that’s part of its magic. When you finally arrive, dram in hand, you know you’ve earned it.

Islay – Modernising Without Losing Its Soul

Islay has always been special. The people are some of the friendliest you’ll find anywhere in Scotland, and thankfully that hasn’t changed. What has changed is how the island presents itself to visitors.

Take Ardbeg, for example; it has embraced a modern, playful approach without losing sight of what makes it iconic. Then there’s Bunnahabhain, where the new tasting room offers views of the Paps of Jura so stunning they distract you from the whisky in your glass. And on the horizon is something entirely new: Portintruan, a distillery that promises not just whisky but a full visitor experience with a centre and restaurant. It’s a sign of how far Islay has come and how much further it’s willing to go.

Of course, growth comes with challenges. With another two distilleries planned, I do wonder how locals feel. Rising house prices, busier roads, and pressure on services must be concerns. Yet every time I visit, I’m reminded of just how warm and genuine the island community is. Islay may be modernising, but it hasn’t lost its soul.

Faces Old and New

Part of the joy of returning to these regions is catching up with familiar faces. Distillery managers such as Georgie Crawford and whisky folk I’ve known for years are always ready with a handshake and often a dram. There’s a sense of continuity that makes the whisky world feel like an extended family. But equally exciting is seeing the new generation coming through. On this trip, a young guide, Grace, at Ardnahoe really impressed me. Her passion and energy were infectious, a reminder that whisky isn’t just about heritage — it’s about the future too. That mix of old and new, tradition and innovation, is what keeps Campbeltown and Islay alive and thriving.

Practical Tips for Whisky Travellers

If you’re thinking of making the journey yourself, here are a few things I’ve learned over the years:

• Getting to Campbeltown: The drive from Glasgow takes around 3.5–4 hours, following the A82 and A83 along Loch Lomond and down the Kintyre Peninsula. It’s beautiful but winding, so plan plenty of time. There are also flights from Glasgow to Campbeltown.

• Where to stay in Campbeltown: The town has upped its game with boutique hotels and B&Bs, but book early if you’re visiting during whisky events. I recommend the Royal Hotel.

• Getting to Islay: From Glasgow, you can fly direct to Islay in under an hour, or drive to Kennacraig for the ferry. The crossing takes around 2 hours. Advance booking is essential for both.

• Where to stay on Islay: From cosy cottages to luxury hotels, there’s something for everyone. Again, book early; Islay fills up quickly, especially during Feis Isle.

• Top travel hack: If you’re doing a combined trip like mine, break it up. Spend a night in Campbeltown before heading to the ferry (40 mins drive), or stay an extra night on Islay before the long journey back. It makes the whole experience more enjoyable.

  
  

Looking Back, Moving Forward

If I had to sum it up:

• Campbeltown has gone from gritty to great. The town has transformed itself into a clean, welcoming whisky hub that embraces its heritage while looking confidently to the future.

• Islay continues to modernise and expand, investing in visitor experiences while holding fast to its authenticity and unmatched friendliness.

  
  

These regions show just how far Scotch whisky tourism has come in the last twenty years. When I first visited, it was about the whisky and little else. Today, it’s about the whole experience: the food, the people, the sense of place. The whisky in your glass is still the star of the show, but everything around it now makes the journey even richer.

Ready to Experience It for Yourself?

At CopperCairn, this is what we do — we take you beyond the drams, into the heart of whisky country. Whether it’s exploring the reborn whisky capital of Campbeltown, soaking in the views at Bunnahabhain, or sharing stories with locals who’ve lived the whisky life for generations, we create experiences that connect you to the spirit of Scotland in every sense.

If you’re ready to plan your own adventure to Campbeltown, Islay, or beyond, get in touch. Let’s raise a glass to the journey.

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